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Photo by Jonas Wickham

Photo: Jonas Wickham


Caribou Pass and Secret Valleys, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska
June 6-17, 2008

Highlights:

  • Explore a seldom-visited part of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
  • Experience the 24-hour sunlight of the Arctic spring
  • Observe caribou and other wildlife

Includes:

  • Charter flights to and from the Arctic Refuge
  • All meals and cooking gear
  • All permits and entrance fees

Trip Number: 08013A

Price: $4,165

Deposit: $200

Capacity: 4

Leader: Jonas Wickham

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The Trip

Photo by Jonas Wickham
Photo: Jonas Wickham

In the Land of the Midnight Sun, the tundra north of the Arctic Circle is bathed in 24-hour daylight as winter gives way to spring and then summer. During this time, visitors to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge have the opportunity to see wild rivers rushing with snowmelt, ranging predators, migrating birds, prolific wildflowers, and, with luck, the annual migration of the Porcupine Caribou Herd as it returns from eastern Canada to its ancestral calving grounds in the Refuge.

Photo by Jonas Wickham
Photo: Jonas Wickham

Our route is designed to explore a seldom-visited area of the refuge in the foothills of the Brooks Range, west of the Kongakut River and to witness the Porcupine Caribou migration through remote mountain valleys. Although our route is moderate, some days may be strenuous, as we will traverse several mountain passes, cross numerous creeks and travel over uneven terrain.

In addition to having the personal experience of a lifetime, we will also explore the conservation, economic and other issues affecting exploitation of Alaska's natural resources in general and of the Arctic Refuge in particular. By visiting the refuge, participants will come to appreciate more fully this vast, remote, wild and intimidating place, and gain a deeper understanding of its unique status as the most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States.

Itinerary

Photo by Jonas Wickham
Photo: Jonas Wickham

Our trip and route are timed to coincide with the change of the seasons and the annual migration of the Porcupine caribou herd from western Canada to the arctic plain. Depending on the path and timing of the migration and other contingencies, including weather, we may reverse or modify our route.

From Fairbanks we will fly north via a scheduled regional airline flight to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village. From there we will shuttle via bush plane in a spectacular flight over the Brooks Range to a tundra strip by the Kongakut River where we will begin our trek in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

After spending the first night by the Kongakut River, our planned route takes us west, climbing over a mountain pass, to where we will camp at the highest point in our trip.

With the towering Romanzoff Mountains to the south and the coastal plain to the north, we will follow caribou trails across another pass, eventually dropping down into a broad valley, where we will camp for a few days. In this remote location we will be able to become a part of the landscape, observing Caribou and other wildlife as they pass by, undisturbed by our presence.

We will also have the opportunity for long day hikes, and perhaps an overnight side trip, to explore even more remote and unvisited areas as far west as the Ekaluakat River and into the upper foothills of the Romanzoffs. We will then head north towards the Arctic Ocean. After taking a side trip to gain a view of the coastal plain, we will reach the Kongakut River and follow it upstream to our pick-up location at, aptly named, Caribou Pass.

Getting There

We will meet in Fairbanks, where we will all stay in a ‘downtown’ B&B, (not included in trip price). Group gear and food will be divided and distributed here. It is recommended that you arrive at least a day, and preferably two days, before the trip to allow time for delayed gear to arrive. Your departure should be scheduled at least a full day after our planned return to Fairbanks to allow for poor weather or other delays.

Accommodations and Food

Photo by Jonas Wickham
Photo: Jonas Wickham

All meals and snacks are provided for the duration of the trip. Participants are responsible for notifying the trip leader of any special dietary requirements. The Sierra Club will furnish stoves, pots, cooking gear, and fuel. All meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, and everybody will be expected to take turns preparing meals and cleaning up.

Trip Difficulty


Photo by Jonas Wickham
Photo: Jonas Wickham

Few people travel to this remote part of the Arctic and we will be hiking in a vast and rugged wilderness area with no trails except those made by wildlife. Because of the relatively modest mileage and elevation gains, the trip is rated moderate overall. However, due to the highly variable nature of Arctic weather and wilderness travel, some backpacking days will be strenuous. Therefore, participants should be in good physical condition and have experience backpacking over rough terrain, for extended periods and in adverse weather.

Our basic route, not including side trips, will be no more than 50 miles and can be covered fairly easily in our planned number of travel days. Hiking will be mainly on river bars and tundra, with some moderate mountain passes. Stream crossings will be necessary, and participants should be prepared for the possibility of wet feet on our travel days. Our altitude will be moderate with reasonable changes in elevation while crossing passes.

Equipment and Clothing


Photo by Jonas Wickham
Photo: Jonas Wickham

Participants should appreciate we will be outside for the entire trip with little opportunity to get out of the weather except in our tents at the end of each day. Because of the changeable weather, participants should be prepared to camp and to be out and active in rain and other adverse weather.

Proper equipment selection is critical and all equipment should be thoroughly field tested before trip departure. We especially urge you to bring only high-quality clothing and boots, high-quality lightweight equipment, good binoculars, and as little of everything else as possible.

Participants will need to supply their own tent, backpack, sleeping bag, rain gear, and mess kit. In addition to all of their own gear, each participant is expected to carry approximately 16 pounds of group food and gear, so please limit the weight of your personal gear accordingly. Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list.

Fishing is usually not very good at this time of year, although grayling and arctic char may be found in some streams. Fishing licenses are required and may be purchased at sporting goods stores in Fairbanks or from the Department of Revenue, Fish and Game Division, Pouch SA, Juneau AK 99811.

The remoteness of the Refuge requires that we be self-sufficient for the duration of our trip. The Leaders will carry a first-aid kit and a satellite phone for use in medical or other emergencies.

The weather in the Refuge at this time of year is usually mild, with temperatures in the 50s and 60s, but can change quickly and be colder or warmer. Wind-chill can be a major factor and you should anticipate and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle, heavy rain, strong winds and possibly snow.

References

Maps

USGS quadrangles, "Demarcation Point" -1:250,000 and "Demarcation Point B-1, B-2 & B-3" - 1:63,360.

Books

  • Pielou, E. C., Field Guide to the Arctic. (University of Chicago Press). This book won the Western Book Award for Creative Nonfiction in 1995. This is readable natural history and science.
  • Kaye, Roger, The Last Great Wilderness: The Campaign to Establish the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. (University of Alaska Press 2006). History of the effort and political dealings to establish the Refuge.
  • Miller, Debbie S., Midnight Wilderness-Journeys in Alaska's Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. (Alaska Northwest Books 1990 & 2000). An excellent compilation of the author's journeys in the Refuge.
  • Madsen, Ken, Under the Arctic Sun-Gwich'in, Caribou & the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. (Earthtales Press 2002).
  • Kantner, Seth, Ordinary Wolves. Recent novel about growing up in modern Inupiat culture.
  • Brower, Kenneth, Earth and the Great Weather. A rich resource on the Brooks Range.
  • Watkins, T. H., Vanishing Arctic. A comprehensive study of the Refuge and its future.

Websites

Conservation

The Arctic Refuge is one of the last intact ecological systems in the world and is under considerable political pressure for development. To date, efforts to designate the refuge as wilderness have been rejected outright and there is an ongoing effort to open the refuge to energy development. Protecting this unique ecosystem is among the highest priorities of nearly every major environmental organization. Trip members will be educated about current developments, how to keep informed of future developments, and to become advocates for protection of this important area.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You’re in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they’ll provide all the guidance you need.


Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.


Staff


Leader:

Jonas Wickham Dodging TV editing work in Los Angeles, co-leader Jonas Wickham leads Sierra Club trips in Alaska and the Rocky Mountains. He’s traveled and backpacked on five continents and made a home on three. He's thrilled to share the sense of discovery and adventure these wild places evoke.

Email: jonaswickham@sbcglobal.net

Co-Leader:

Nick Pilch Nick Pilch has been hiking and exploring the outdoors ever since he can remember. As well as leading Alaska trips, Nick is a leader for the San Francisco Bay Chapter Backpack Section. This is Nick's 4th trip to the Arctic and 3rd trip to the Refuge. Nick is a peak climber, an avid gardener and budding naturalist.

E-mail: nicky@mindspring.com



General Notes About Sierra Club Trips