Photo: Jonas Wickham
Highlights:
- Explore a seldom-visited part of the
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
- Experience the 24-hour sunlight of the
Arctic spring
- Observe caribou and other wildlife
Includes:
- Charter flights to and from the Arctic
Refuge
- All meals and cooking gear
- All permits and entrance fees
Trip Number: 08013A
Price: $4,165
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 4
Leader: Jonas Wickham
The Trip
Photo: Jonas Wickham
In the Land of the Midnight Sun, the tundra north of the Arctic Circle
is bathed in 24-hour daylight as winter gives way to spring and then
summer. During this time, visitors to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
have the opportunity to see wild rivers rushing with snowmelt,
ranging predators, migrating birds, prolific wildflowers, and, with
luck, the annual migration of the Porcupine Caribou Herd as it returns
from eastern Canada to its ancestral calving grounds in the Refuge.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Our route is designed to explore a seldom-visited area of the refuge
in the foothills of the Brooks Range, west of the Kongakut River and
to witness the Porcupine Caribou migration through remote mountain
valleys. Although our route is moderate, some days may be strenuous,
as we will traverse several mountain passes, cross numerous creeks
and travel over uneven terrain.
In addition to having the personal experience of a lifetime, we
will also explore the conservation, economic and other issues affecting
exploitation of Alaska's natural resources in general and of the Arctic
Refuge in particular. By visiting the refuge, participants will come
to appreciate more fully this vast, remote, wild and intimidating
place, and gain a deeper understanding of its unique status as the
most significant wilderness area remaining in the United States.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Our trip and route are timed to coincide with the change of the seasons
and the annual migration of the Porcupine caribou herd from western
Canada to the arctic plain. Depending on the path and timing of the
migration and other contingencies, including weather, we may reverse
or modify our route.
From Fairbanks we will fly north via a scheduled regional airline
flight to the Gwich'in settlement of Arctic Village. From there we
will shuttle via bush plane in a spectacular flight over the Brooks
Range to a tundra strip by the Kongakut River where we will begin
our trek in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
After spending the first night by the Kongakut River, our planned
route takes us west, climbing over a mountain pass, to where we will
camp at the highest point in our trip.
With the towering Romanzoff Mountains to the south and the coastal
plain to the north, we will follow caribou trails across another pass,
eventually dropping down into a broad valley, where we will camp for
a few days. In this remote location we will be able to become a part
of the landscape, observing Caribou and other wildlife as they pass
by, undisturbed by our presence.
We will also have the opportunity for long day hikes, and perhaps
an overnight side trip, to explore even more remote and unvisited
areas as far west as the Ekaluakat River and into the upper foothills
of the Romanzoffs. We will then head north towards the Arctic Ocean.
After taking a side trip to gain a view of the coastal plain, we will
reach the Kongakut River and follow it upstream to our pick-up location
at, aptly named, Caribou Pass.
Getting There
We will meet in Fairbanks, where we will all stay in a ‘downtown’
B&B, (not included in trip price). Group gear and food will be
divided and distributed here. It is recommended that you arrive at
least a day, and preferably two days, before the trip to allow
time for delayed gear to arrive. Your departure should be scheduled
at least a full day after our planned return to Fairbanks to allow
for poor weather or other delays.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
All meals and snacks are provided for the duration of the trip. Participants
are responsible for notifying the trip leader of any special dietary
requirements. The Sierra Club will furnish stoves, pots, cooking gear,
and fuel. All meals will be prepared and eaten as a group, and everybody
will be expected to take turns preparing meals and cleaning up.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Few people travel to this remote part of the Arctic and we will be
hiking in a vast and rugged wilderness area with no trails except
those made by wildlife. Because of the relatively modest mileage and
elevation gains, the trip is rated moderate overall. However, due
to the highly variable nature of Arctic weather and wilderness travel,
some backpacking days will be strenuous. Therefore, participants should
be in good physical condition and have experience backpacking over
rough terrain, for extended periods and in adverse weather.
Our basic route, not including side trips, will be no more than 50
miles and can be covered fairly easily in our planned number of travel
days. Hiking will be mainly on river bars and tundra, with some moderate
mountain passes. Stream crossings will be necessary, and participants
should be prepared for the possibility of wet feet on our travel days.
Our altitude will be moderate with reasonable changes in elevation
while crossing passes.
Photo: Jonas Wickham
Participants should appreciate we will be outside for the entire
trip with little opportunity to get out of the weather except in our
tents at the end of each day. Because of the changeable weather, participants
should be prepared to camp and to be out and active in rain and other
adverse weather.
Proper equipment selection is critical and all equipment should be
thoroughly field tested before trip departure. We especially urge
you to bring only high-quality clothing and boots, high-quality lightweight
equipment, good binoculars, and as little of everything else as possible.
Participants will need to supply their own tent, backpack, sleeping
bag, rain gear, and mess kit. In addition to all of their own gear,
each participant is expected to carry approximately 16 pounds of group
food and gear, so please limit the weight of your personal gear accordingly.
Confirmed participants will receive a detailed equipment list.
Fishing is usually not very good at this time of year, although grayling
and arctic char may be found in some streams. Fishing licenses are
required and may be purchased at sporting goods stores in Fairbanks
or from the Department of Revenue, Fish and Game Division, Pouch SA,
Juneau AK 99811.
The remoteness of the Refuge requires that we be self-sufficient
for the duration of our trip. The Leaders will carry a first-aid kit
and a satellite phone for use in medical or other emergencies.
The weather in the Refuge at this time of year is usually mild, with
temperatures in the 50s and 60s, but can change quickly and be colder
or warmer. Wind-chill can be a major factor and you should anticipate
and be prepared for strong sun, fog, drizzle, heavy rain, strong winds
and possibly snow.
Maps USGS quadrangles, "Demarcation Point"
-1:250,000 and "Demarcation Point B-1, B-2 & B-3" -
1:63,360.
Books
- Pielou, E. C., Field Guide to the Arctic. (University
of Chicago Press). This book won the Western Book Award for Creative
Nonfiction in 1995. This is readable natural history and science.
- Kaye, Roger, The Last Great Wilderness: The Campaign to Establish the Arctic
National Wildlife Refuge. (University of Alaska
Press 2006). History of the effort and political dealings to establish
the Refuge.
- Miller, Debbie S., Midnight Wilderness-Journeys in Alaska's Arctic National Wildlife
Refuge. (Alaska Northwest Books 1990 &
2000). An excellent compilation of the author's journeys in the
Refuge.
- Madsen, Ken, Under the Arctic Sun-Gwich'in, Caribou & the Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge. (Earthtales Press 2002).
- Kantner, Seth, Ordinary Wolves. Recent novel about growing
up in modern Inupiat culture.
- Brower, Kenneth, Earth and the Great Weather. A rich resource
on the Brooks Range.
- Watkins, T. H., Vanishing Arctic. A comprehensive study
of the Refuge and its future.
Websites
Conservation
The Arctic Refuge is one of the last intact ecological systems in the
world and is under considerable political pressure for development.
To date, efforts to designate the refuge as wilderness have been rejected
outright and there is an ongoing effort to open the refuge to energy
development. Protecting this unique ecosystem is among the highest priorities
of nearly every major environmental organization. Trip members will
be educated about current developments, how to keep informed of future
developments, and to become advocates for protection of this important
area.
Travel in Alaska and the Arctic
Sierra Club outings in Alaska are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You’re in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they’ll provide all the guidance you need.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details
about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.
The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
Leader:
Dodging TV editing work in Los Angeles, co-leader Jonas Wickham leads Sierra Club trips in Alaska and the Rocky Mountains. He’s traveled and backpacked on five continents and made a home on three. He's thrilled to share the sense of discovery and adventure these wild places evoke.
Email: jonaswickham@sbcglobal.net
Co-Leader:
Nick Pilch has been hiking and exploring the outdoors ever since he can remember. As well as leading Alaska trips, Nick is a leader for the San Francisco Bay Chapter Backpack Section. This is Nick's 4th trip to the Arctic and 3rd trip to the Refuge. Nick is a peak climber, an avid gardener and budding naturalist.
E-mail: nicky@mindspring.com
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