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Photo by Don Murch

Photo: Don Murch


Solstice at the top of the Brooks Range, Gates of the Arctic National Park
June 16-23, 2008

Highlights:

  • Backpack for a week through pristine tundra, surrounded by towering mountains.
  • Experience the longest day of the year above the Arctic Circle.
  • Bird and botanize in the Brooks Range as spring turns to summer.

Includes:

  • Round-trip flight from Fairbanks to Anaktuvuk Pass.
  • 7 days of wilderness backpacking
  • All food and snacks

Trip Number: 08017A

Price: $2,365

Deposit: $200

Capacity: 5

Leader: Don Murch

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The Trip

Photo by Don Murch
Photo: Don Murch

Back in the 1930s, Bob Marshall, the renowned wilderness advocate, traveled extensively in the Brooks Range. At the time, most of Alaska was uncharted territory, and Marshall understood what exploring this terra incognita meant:

"...[A]dventure, whether physical or mental, implies breaking into unpenetrated ground, venturing beyond the boundary of normal aptitude, extending oneself to the limit of capacity, courageously facing peril. Life without the chance for such exertions would be for many persons a dreary game, scarcely bearable in its horrible banality."

We will follow in Marshall's footsteps on our own foray into the Brooks Range. Beginning in the native village of Anaktuvuk Pass, we will backpack through tundra and explore peaks, valleys and glaciers, looking for wildlife amid these dramatic mountains.

This Backpack is a more in-depth exploration of the central Brooks Range than the Sierra Club has offered before. Participants on previous expeditions all commented on how beautiful and enchanting the mountains looked and wished they could have spent more time in them. Our journey will give ample opportunity for exploration or just relaxing in this expansive arctic setting.

The remoteness and rugged nature of the Brooks Range discourage most tourists; these same qualities make it one of the last virgin wildernesses in the United States. Those of us who do venture into this vast wilderness will be rewarded with solitude, beauty, and the chance for adventure. As we find our route through tundra and mountain valleys, we will share this wilderness with the Nunamiut, subsistence hunters of Anaktuvuk. Historical evidence of their occupation can be found in several places. During our week north of the Arctic Circle, we will explore glacial cut valleys, have the opportunity to climb surrounding peaks, and view hidden glaciers.

We will be in wilderness from beginning to end, completely dependent on our own resources, and well north of the Arctic Circle, where the summer sun neither rises nor sets, but instead circumnavigates the sky. The timberline reaches the southern view of our route, so on this Arctic trek we will experience both tundra mountains and distant taiga. Wildflowers will be at their best, and birding activity will be a highlight for many. Wildlife sightings will include many species of birds and could possibly include Golden Eagles, Dall sheep, caribou, moose, fox, wolf, and grizzly bears.

Itinerary

On the evening before the start of the trip, the group will meet for dinner in Fairbanks to discuss the trip, which officially begins the next day as we fly from Fairbanks on a regularly scheduled air carrier to the native village of Anaktuvuk Pass, located north of the Continental Divide. After a brief visit to the informative display in the visitor’s center in Anaktuvuk Pass, we will begin the backpacking portion of the trip.

Our seven-day hike begins in rolling tundra and proceeds up the Anaktuvuk River, following it to its source near Limestack Mountain, and the Continental Divide at Ernie's Pass. We will lay over near this low pass and explore more deeply the interior valleys of the jagged Brooks Range and the valley of the precipices south of the divide. By day eight we will have looped back to our return flight to Fairbanks from Anaktuvuk Pass.

Getting There

Trip members are responsible for arranging their own transportation to and from the trip's starting point in Fairbanks. We strongly advise that you arrive in Fairbanks at least one full day ahead of schedule to allow for delayed luggage. Arctic air travel, commercial or charter, is not always on schedule due to weather conditions as well as a more laid back business approach. You should also allow for at least one flexible day at the end of the trip in case we encounter unexpected weather delays. Note that charter flights during the trip are included in the trip fee.

We will meet in Fairbanks on June 15th for our flight to Anaktuvuk on the 16th. It is advisable to arrive at least 24 hours before our flight in order to make sure delayed luggage catches up. We will return to Fairbanks on the 23rd at noon.

Accommodations and Food

All meals and snacks are included in the trip fee. As usual on Sierra Club outings, all members help with cooking and clean-up chores. Any special dietary requirements should be discussed with the leaders well in advance to be sure they can be accommodated. Trip members and staff will all share in carrying trip food and equipment.

Trip Difficulty

For the experienced wilderness backpacker this is a moderately strenuous (M/S) trip, moderate for some but potentially strenuous for the less experienced backpacker. Any trip to the Arctic can be demanding -- both for people and their equipment. There are no trails, and because the itinerary is not fixed, our route finding may take us across unknown territory, which may mean repeated stream crossings. Our mileage, roughly 50 miles of hiking, will occupy six to eight hours a day including numerous rest stops. The possibility of severe weather conditions and the remoteness of the region require experienced, competent participants. While this outing is an excellent first wilderness trip in Alaska, it is not for beginner backpackers unless they are young and strong.

Photo by Don Murch
Photo: Don Murch

Alaska is unlike any other place. Miles of tundra, with its mossy cover is interrupted by bogs, where tussocks make the hiking unusually slow. Our planned six miles of hiking per day (with a layover day) may sound easy, but it is actually as difficult as twice the distance over most other terrain. In the river valleys, we'll follow game trails through the dense willow and alder thickets. River crossings will be infrequent but icy. The permafrost layer, just below the surface, prevents water from being absorbed by the soil. Consequently, boggy areas and stream crossings will keep boots wet. Experience with heavy packs off-trail in unstable footing situations is highly desirable. Discuss your background in these situations with the leaders beforehand.

Weather conditions are difficult to predict. There may still be snow in the passes -- even in the valleys -- and ice in the rivers. There will be inclement weather but there is a good chance that we'll have several sunny, warm days. Some light, late snow and freezing weather is unlikely but possible. Rainy periods are almost certain. Temperatures should generally be between 35 and 65 degrees. Prerequisites for this trip are recent backpacking experience, good physical condition, and the ability to be comfortable in a very remote setting and deal positively with challenging weather. Most of all, you'll need to have an adventurous spirit and a sense of humor.

All trip members will have to carry 15-20 pounds of equipment and food, as well as their own gear. Equipment will be more substantial than what is required on backpacks in the Sierra and Rockies; packs may weigh 50 pounds or more.

Equipment and Clothing

Photo by Don Murch
Photo: Don Murch

Trip participants must furnish their own personal camping equipment. The Sierra Club will provide cooking equipment, stoves, fuel, satellite phone, group first-aid kit, water purification, and all food, including snacks. Personal equipment should be thoroughly field-tested before the trip. The following general list gives an overview of what is needed. The leader will provide a detailed checklist to those who sign up.

  • Backpack: You'll need a good-quality, large volume (5,000 cubic inches), internal or external frame backpack, and a pack rain cover.
  • Tent: Freestanding three- or four-season tent with full-coverage rainfly, able to withstand high winds. We prefer that people share tents to minimize pack weight and the impact of the group. Participants can work out arrangements prior to departure.
  • Sleeping bag: Down or synthetic and, realistically, comfortable down to 15 degrees. If you sleep cold, consider a lower rating. Down bags must be in a waterproof stuff sack.
  • Sleeping pad: Either inflatable or closed-cell-foam type.
  • Hiking boots: Heavy-duty with good ankle support and well broken-in to avoid the most frequent first-aid problem on Alaska trips: blisters.
  • Raingear: Two-piece (jacket and pants) of good quality to be used for wind as well as rain protection. Gore-Tex or coated nylon. No lightweight plastic. No ponchos.

Maps:
The U.S.G.S. "Phillip Smith Mountains, Wiseman and Chandler Lake" (1:250,000) maps show the total trip area at a scale of four miles per inch. The leader can provide names of the more detailed topographic maps. Leaders will have all the necessary maps. Purchasing copies of your own is a matter of personal choice.

References

  • Miller, Debbie S., Midnight Wilderness
  • Marshall, Robert, Exploring the Central Brooks Range
  • Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams
  • Kauffmann, John M., Alaska's Brooks Range
  • McPhee, John, Coming into the Country
  • Peilou, E.C., A Naturalists Guide to the Arctic.
    Will be a part of trip gear.

Conservation

Photo by Don Murch
Photo: Don Murch

Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve was created in 1980 by Congress to protect 8.2 million acres of natural beauty and intact Arctic ecosystems. It has neither the oil nor the timber that attracts those who would seek to build roads and develop the area. By spending time in a true wilderness setting, we will gain insight into the value of wilderness, along with a better basis for discussing issues such as drilling for oil in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. We will be visiting Anaktuvuk Pass, home to the last remaining band of Nunamiut Eskimos, who live by hunting, trapping, fishing, and berry-picking. In our discussions of conservation and land use, we will consider humankind's place in the wilderness, and what kinds of pressures native communities are experiencing.

Travel in Alaska and the Arctic

Sierra Club outings in Alaska are special experiences in true wilderness, but they also carry an element of risk. Trip locales are often remote, away from the amenities of civilization, including sophisticated medical care and immediate evacuation possibilities. Many of our Alaska trips now carry satellite phones, but even with this technology, communication with the outside world can be difficult and emergency assistance can be days away. Weather in Alaska is unpredictable, and inclement weather can be severe. Among other hazards are cold river and stream crossings, tidal activity, calving glaciers, the psychological effects of remoteness, and the presence of large wild animals. You’re in good hands, though, so don't worry: Your trip leaders have vast experience in the Last Frontier, and they’ll provide all the guidance you need.

Trip Price

See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

Staff

Don Murch Don Murch is a father, organic farmer, commercial fisherman, and wilderness guide with extensive travels in the wilds of Alaska. He has thirty years experience planning and executing backpacking, rafting, and group tours in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. Gourmet cooking is one of his favorite pastimes.

E-mail: maizesh@nature.berkeley.edu






General Notes About Sierra Club Trips