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Photo: Jim Dacey
Highlights:
- Hike, fish, and explore the Great Smoky Mountains at
your own pace
- Stay at the charming Tapoco Lodge
- Savor delicious southern meals
Includes:
- All meals, lodging, taxes, and tips
- Full use of lodge facilities
- Bed and bath linens
Trip Number: 08050A
Price: $1,095
Deposit: $200
Capacity: 18
Leader: Vivian Spielbichler
The Trip
Photo: Jim Dacey
This trip is a lodge-based overview of the Slickrock Wilderness and Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, both of which lie in the
Cheoah Ranger District of the Nantahala National Forest. A steep, 5,300-foot ridge covered by 14,500 acres of mixed hardwood forest -- some of
which is virgin -- divides the two preserves. Throughout the area, "balds," or breaks in the forest,
provide spectacular views of both Tennessee and the Great Smoky Mountains of
North Carolina. Descending the steep ridge into the Slickrock Wilderness,
the larger of the two preserves, hikers can find campsites in the thick forests on either
side of Slickrock Creek. Cascading over two waterfalls, the creek offers
good fishing for bait-wise brown trout.
The smaller Joyce Kilmer Forest -- named for the World War I soldier and poet,
Joyce Kilmer, author of the classic poem, "Trees" -- measures 3,800 acres and
includes a tract of virgin tulip poplars, as well as huge conifers.
Photo: Jim Dacey
We will walk every day. Approximately ten miles
of trails originate on the grounds of the lodge, including a scenic one-and-a-half-mile
nature trail that goes to Bear Creek Falls. Recently, a visiting botanist told
the lodge staff that there were more varieties of wildflowers on that trail than
anywhere he has ever been. The Ike Branch Trail is the shortest walk to the Slickrock
Wilderness. Some days we will carpool (sharing costs) and drive the country road
to the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest to enjoy 500-year-old tulip poplars, hemlock
trees, and a profusion of spring wildflowers, not to mention mosses, ferns and
galax. The forest has never been logged and it is pristine! The lovely Little
Santeetlah Creek tumbles through the center of it all. Walking here is an unforgettable
experience.
We will also walk in the Great Smokies National Park along a 20-mile creek
with cascades and waterfalls, typical of the park, plus more wildflowers.
On another country road, we will visit Fontana Dam, the largest in the area.
We will also walk on the Appalachian Trail, which runs right across the dam.
Hopefully we'll have the opportunity to chat with "through-hikers" heading
north to Mt. Kathadin. We will also carpool to the new Cherohala Skyway, which
boasts spectacular views. There, we will hike up to some of the balds typical
of the southern Appalachians. No one really knows why these mountains are bald
while nearby peaks at the same elevation are covered with trees. Other than
a Cherokee legend about their creation, they remain a mystery.
Photo: Jim Dacey
On our daily walks we will look for migrating birds, identify
wildflowers, and enjoy great views. In the past, we have seen whole hillsides
of white trillium, spring beauties, Canada violets, and squirrel corn. There
are flowers of all colors and descriptions, including trout lilies, yellow
mandarin, dwarf iris, toothworts and bellworts, blue cohosh, May apples, ginseng,
foam flowers, asters, Solomon's seal, bloodroot, buttercups, bishop's caps,
maybe even showy orchis and bleeding hearts. There are usually very few people
on the trails at this time of year and we often feel we have the entire area
to ourselves.
We end our days mid-afternoon so you can hike a few extra hours in any place
that interests you. Friday will be a "day off." You can return to any area
where you wish to spend more time, explore new areas, go fishing or birding,
or just relax at the lodge. For those who enjoy fishing, the opportunities
are numerous. Whitewater activities -- including rafting, canoeing, and kayaking
-- are available on the Nantahala River. Additionally, the Ocoee River, site
of the whitewater event at the 1996 Summer Olympics, is just a short drive
away.
Members of the community will be invited to discuss environmental issues
and share their culture with us in the evenings. In the past, we have hosted
local bluegrass musicians, rangers from the Cheoah Ranger District,
a member of the Graham County Board of Commissioners, and Cherokee
from the Snow Bird Community, the largest settlement of pure-blood Cherokee
remaining in the region. If you play a musical instrument, bring it. In the
past, we have had wonderful evenings with participants playing the piano, violin,
or recorder, singing, or telling stories.
Getting There
The starting point for this trip is Tapoco Lodge Resort, located in western North Carolina, 15 miles north of
Robbinsville on Highway 129 and the Cheoah River. Travel to the starting point is the responsibility
of the trip participants and is not included in the trip price. Nearby airports include Knoxville
(60 miles) and Chattanooga (123 miles), Tennessee; Atlanta, Georgia (160 miles);
and Asheville, North Carolina (60 miles). Driving directions will be provided
to registered participants. Please plan to arrive by mid-afternoon on day one. We will meet at 5 p.m.
and dinner is at 6 p.m. Remember, the area is remote. There are no superhighways, and it will
take longer to get here than you expect. No matter what direction
you come from, you will find the last hour of travel is on two-lane, scenic
country roads with many hills and curves.
We'll be staying at Tapoco Lodge,
built by Alcoa in 1930 as an executive retreat
and opened to the public by the Cody family in June 1995. It is listed on the
National Register of Historic Places. Beautifully situated a few yards from the cascading Cheoah
River, the lodge's spacious cottages have private baths, heat, air conditioning,
and a porch. Rooms will be double occupancy and come without phones or television.
The single supplement is approximately $46
per day -- notify the leader if you are interested. Bedding and towels are provided.
There is a recreation room lobby that offers billiards, ping-pong, a variety
of indoor games, and a gift shop. A sitting room offers a reading library,
Primestar satellite TV, and a grand piano. The grounds include a lighted tennis
court, shuffleboard court, horseshoes, and a playground. The outdoor pool will
likely not be open in early April. If it is, the spring-fed water will be quite
cold.
The menu is traditional southern cuisine, with all breads and desserts made
from scratch. The first meal of the trip will be dinner on day one, and the
last meal will be lunch on the last day. The lodge provides lunch: a sandwich
of your choice, bottled water or canned drink, chips or something crunchy,
fruit, and something sweet. Alcoholic beverages are not included in the trip
cost.
If you wish to stay an additional day before or after the trip, the lodge
offers the seventh day for free. Your only costs will be meals, taxes, and
tips (approximately $40). Please let the leaders know if you would like to
stay the extra night.
The trip can be considered leisurely. There will be time for birding, observing
flowers, photography, fishing, and enjoying the old-growth forest.
You will need a day pack to carry your lunch, water, rain gear, binoculars,
cameras, and other gear. You must have rain gear and comfortable -- preferably waterproof
-- shoes or boots. It is sometimes wet in the forest (annual rainfall is approximately
80 inches), and tennis shoes get wet and uncomfortable quickly. It is also
your responsibility to provide any equipment you will want, such as bicycles,
fishing equipment, canoes, and kayaks. It is also good to carry sun protection
and insect repellent, though we have had very few problems with insects at
this time of year. We will carry a first-aid kit. The leader will provide a
detailed equipment list to registered participants.
It may also be cool in the evenings, but it should be warm during the day.
Expect temperatures of 30-80 degrees. Occasionally there will be snow at the
higher elevations.
You may wish to purchase trail maps, topographic maps or books at the Cheoah
Ranger Station. It is located north of Robbinsville and 1.5 miles from U.S. 129,
on Massey Branch Road (SR 1116).
Conservation
Photo: Jim Dacey
At the moment, the biggest environmental concern here is the dam on the Cheoah
River. Built by Alcoa to produce electricity for its plant in Tennessee, the
dam is no longer needed but still releases too little water into the river,
making it difficult to sustain fish populations and prevent the growth of brush
and trees in the riverbed. Locals and conservationists alike have urged the
Department of Energy's Federal Energy Regulatory Commission not to renew ALCOA's
hydropower license unless the company agrees to release more water into the
river.
For the first time, in 2006, several releases provided whitewater
enthusiasts with an opportunity to raft or kayak Class IV plus rapids! Hopefully
negotiations between Alcoa, Graham County and the Cheoah Ranger District, will eventually
restore the river to its original water flow.
Other environmental concerns include acid rain, logging in the national forests,
and fishing camps in designated wilderness areas.
In Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, people are loving the big trees to death.
Ginseng, for example, is now almost extinct in the area. Hunting and the use
of hunting dogs have driven much of the wildlife from the area. As the Forest Service will tell you, there just isn't enough money for the
staff needed to manage trails and police the area. Currently, there
is also concern that the government may build a road on the southern edge of the
Great Smokies National Park. On this trip, we will discuss all of these issues.
See the How to Apply for an Outing section for more details on registering for this trip and details
about our Reservation and Cancellation Policy.
The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.
Viv and Otto Spielbichler have led Sierra Club outings for more than 25 years because they like the people. They enjoy hiking, canoeing, skiing, and SCUBA diving. Both of their careers were in education, mostly guidance and counseling. They have lived in the East, the Far East, and in Jamaica as Peace Corps volunteers. Now, they are retired 70-somethings and live in south Florida so they can "boat" the year round and have access to three major airports. They have two sons, a daughter, and three grandchildren.
E-mail: ottoviv@cs.com
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